Four days in western Sicily means immersing yourself in a world where crystal-clear sea meets millennia of history, where pink salt pans alternate with perfectly preserved Greek temples, and where every meal is a celebration of authentic flavours. Based in Trapani, we explored this wonderful land together with Enea, among hilltop medieval villages, historic wineries and picture-postcard beaches. Ready to discover our itinerary?
Arrival in Trapani and a first taste of the sea
Landing at Trapani airport on a sunny early June afternoon, we immediately felt that enveloping warmth so typical of Sicily, the kind that smells of sea and summer. After collecting our hire car and reaching our Airbnb apartment in the city, we could not resist the call of the sea.
Tipa beach was our first Sicilian stop: a stretch of golden sand that was far from crowded. The calm, clear sea welcomed us with that ideal temperature that in June delivers the first proper beach days.
Marsala: between fortified wine and pink salt pans
Our first full day was devoted to Marsala, a city that has tied its name to one of the most celebrated wines in the world. The visit to Cantine Florio was a fascinating experience that took us to the heart of Sicilian winemaking tradition.
Walking among the centuries-old barrels in the historic cellars and hearing the story of how Marsala became great was a true journey back in time. Even Enea was struck by the enormous wooden casks and the pleasant cool of the underground cellars, a perfect refuge from the summer heat.
The perfect conclusion to the visit was a tasting of the base wine and two Marsalas, a Vergine and a Superiore, paired with simple nibbles made from local produce. During the tasting, our guide shared further details about the winery and how to read the labels on their bottles.
The historic centre of Marsala welcomed us with its elegant streets and that relaxed pace so typical of Sicilian cities. We strolled among baroque palaces and historic churches, discovering hidden corners and breathing in the authentic atmosphere of a city that still lives at its own rhythm, far from mass tourism.
The most special moment of the day was the visit to the Stagnone Nature Reserve. Watching these basins of water shift in colour from pink to violet depending on the light, with windmills silhouetted against the sky and the island of Mozia in the background, is truly a unique spectacle.
After a visit to the museum, we walked the paths among the salt pans with our guide, listening to explanations of how sea salt is produced following a tradition handed down through centuries.
The light of sunset transformed everything into a palette of pastel colours, giving us unforgettable photos with the contrast of the salt pan water mirrors and the surrounding natural landscape.
Visiting time: 8h
Trapani: the city between two seas
Devoting a morning to Trapani was essential for getting to know the city that hosted us. Its historic centre spreads across a narrow strip of land that juts into the sea, creating the distinctive sickle shape that gave it its name.
Strolling along Corso Vittorio Emanuele means crossing centuries of history: baroque palaces, churches rich in stucco work and that everyday vitality that makes Trapani a real city, not a tourist postcard.
Among the most striking buildings, we would particularly highlight the Palazzo Senatorio, three storeys tall and dominated by a clock and calendar, and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, with its evocative frescoed nave.
Visiting time: 3h
Erice: a village in the clouds
Climbing up to Erice means going to discover a medieval village that has managed to preserve its authenticity and from its heights offers breathtaking panoramas over the sea and the surrounding towns.
Its cobbled lanes, grey stone houses and atmosphere suspended in time made us feel transported to another era.
The Chiesa Madre with its richly decorated ceiling is a jewel of sacred art that is worth the climb on its own: the gilded stucco work, the frescoes and the intimate atmosphere create an almost mystical experience.
Erice is also synonymous with indulgence. The arancini stop was compulsory and absolutely memorable: crispy on the outside, soft and flavourful inside, exactly as they should be. Enea devoured a whole ragù one, enjoying it greatly. We went to Antica Pasticceria da Michele, which has tables outside along the main street (the alternative is La Tonda Fritta, but it was closed for the summer break).
And then there is the one and only Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, an institution. This extraordinary woman, who transformed the recipes she learned in the convent where she grew up into a successful business, produces sweets that are small works of art. Her cannoli and cassatine are not to be missed, perfect to savour on the little balcony of the shop, perhaps accompanied by a glass of Marsala.
Continue the walk up to the Giardino del Balio (under renovation during our visit) and the nearby Castle (temporarily closed) to enjoy fantastic panoramas over the surrounding area, the Castello di Venere and the Pepoli tower.
Visiting time: 4h
Segesta: the temple in silence
After Erice, we continued towards one of Sicily's most evocative archaeological sites: the Temple of Segesta. Arriving here means standing before a masterpiece of 5th-century BC Greek architecture, perfectly preserved and incredibly isolated in the landscape.
The doric temple stands alone on a hillside, surrounded only by nature and silence. What strikes you is precisely this: no modern buildings on the horizon, just you and a monument from 2,500 years ago that looks as though it was placed there only recently.
Enea was fascinated by the enormous columns and we had great fun imagining what this place was like in antiquity. Ask at the ticket office about the times of the internal shuttle bus — it will save you time getting up to the Greek theatre on top of a nearby hill. The theatre is well worth a visit, not only for its architecture but also for the spectacular view over the valley.
Our tip is to visit Segesta in the late afternoon, when the light turns golden and the heat eases, perhaps after visiting Erice.
Visiting time: 3h
San Vito Lo Capo: paradise before the journey home
We dedicated our last day of the trip to what many consider one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Italy: San Vito Lo Capo.
The beach of the finest white sand, the sea shading from turquoise to blue: despite the beach being fairly busy, it remains a beautiful spot for a dip in its crystal-clear waters.
Before heading back to Palermo airport, we treated ourselves to one last proper Sicilian lunch. The freshest fish, intense flavours and that warm hospitality that makes every meal in Sicily a moment of conviviality.
Leaving San Vito was hard, but we knew we were carrying within us the memory of that particular shade of blue and the certainty in our hearts that western Sicily is one of those destinations we will return to, because four days are far too few to truly savour it.
Visiting time: 5h
Before You Leave
- How do I get around? The car is the optimal solution for travelling with children.
If you are looking for the best deal, try getting a quote here:
Car hire in Italy from €3/day - FREE cancellationCompare 41,065 car hire deals with FREE cancellation in Italy. Find the lowest prices from 3 € per day.
Filiamovia
- Where to stay? We decided to use Trapani as our base: we chose an apartment outside the centre but a stone's throw from the sea, convenient for visiting all the places we have told you about.
- Do I need to book anything in advance? The visit and tasting at Cantine Florio must be booked well in advance on their website.
- Where to eat? Here are the restaurants we recommend:
- in Trapani we recommend this charming little restaurant serving tasty fish dishes with a homely touch: Osteria la bettolaccia.
- in Marsala we absolutely recommend Il gallo e l’innamorata: a menu designed to showcase local produce, from vegetables to fish. The tuna tasting platter among the starters — in every form imaginable — is not to be missed.
- in San Vito Lo Capo we absolutely recommend Dal Cozzaro: on the pedestrian boulevard a short walk from the beach. The fish dishes are unmissable and the busiate with fish or aubergine are generous and delicious. They even won Enea over!
- in Trapani we recommend this charming little restaurant serving tasty fish dishes with a homely touch: Osteria la bettolaccia.
Comments